Sunday, January 17, 2010
Food, "Dish", Atlanta
Unsung eats
Take a peek inside these holes in the wall
Shutterstock
Food doesn’t have to be fancy to get our palates excited.
By Katie Gallagher
Yeah, it’s nice to get all good-looking and enjoy an evening beginning with a reservation, drinks and course after course of reinvention, but equally killer are those nights spent at your favorite hole in the wall. This term is applied with the warmest affection to those unsung places where the beer might not come in a signature glass but still gives you a buzz, the food appears simple and self-explanatory but leaves you leaning back with a dumb, satisfied grin, and the service is less like a hotel concierge and more like your buddy who’s had a long day but still loves ya. Get your nose out of the air and into a hole in the wall near you.
THE EUCLID AVENUE YACHT CLUB
Broken in and loosened up, the Yacht Club has a devil-may-care appeal. The carvings on the wall, the uncalculated and random wall décor and the liberal use of neon lights make the space comparable to a prized old purse or pair of shoes whose worn qualities are quantified as adding character. Order four knuckle sandwiches sans the shiner, choosing from burger, fried chicken and barbecue pork for $6.95 or a yacht club, a triple-decker of chicken, bacon, lettuce tomato cheese and mayo for $7.75. The beer list features a variety of bottles and draughts satisfying the diverse clientele of the joint, from suits to scenesters. 1136 Euclid Ave. NE. 404-688-2582. www.theeayc.com.
ROSA’S PIZZA
Nestled in the historic Fairlie-Poplar district is a Southern unicorn: authentic, New York-style pizza. It’s wide, it’s thin, and it’s begging to be folded with a sinful amount of cheese. The sausage rolls, pizza dough packed with hot sausage, onions and cheese, are worth spending time with. Even though the plain cheese seems too good to mess with, a variety of delicious toppings are available. Cynics beware: You may have met your match. This pizza is the real deal. 62 Broad St. NW. 404-521-2596. www.rosaspizza.net.
LAS PALMERAS
Still crying because Kool Korners Grocery closed? Fret not, this hideaway houses a delicious, genuine Cuban sandwich. Sipping sangria over a plate of ropa vieja, an authentic Cuban braised beef dish or maduros (sweet plantains) will make you want to jump into the sunset beachscape painted on the wall and find the nearest hammock. It’s relaxed, affordable and tucked away from the hustle of Downtown without leaving the city. 368 5th St. NE. 404-872-0846.
EATS
People-watching, a prime aspect of what hole-in-the-wall dining does better than fine dining, is at its best at Eats. Take in the quirky characters of the Ponce area over delicious pasta for under $7. The jerk chicken is amazing and can be paired with two sides for $7. If eating animals isn’t your thing, combine three or four of your favorite vegetables, hot and delicious with cornbread for under $6. 600 Ponce de Leon Ave. 404-888-9149. www.eatsonponce.net.
FAT MATT’S RIB SHACK
The finger-licking urges that the ribs inspire need not be fought at the wooden tables of Fat Matt’s. Get comfortable with a slab and a beer and enjoy the live music that’s played nightly. The pulled pork or chicken sandwich comes with a bag of chips and is as delicious as it is uncomplicated. Some homey sides support the meat with flavorful force including rum baked beans and Brunswick stew. 1811 Piedmont Ave. NE. 404-607-1622. www.fatmattsribshack.com.
SP